The following describes construction of a very basic helmet for use in padded weapon and waster (wooden weapon) training. It was originally designed for controlled singlestick, dagger, and quarterstaff play. Please note that this guideline is specific to a particular combination of items. Precise measurements will vary depending on, for example, the size of the fencing mask, so some experimentation will be necessary should you choose to construct a similar helmet.

It is also important to note that no amount or form of protective equipment can guarantee safety, and that skilled control is vital before undertaking any type of contact drill or sparring. Be particularly cautious when applying any form of thrusting attack to the mask. Aside from the obvious risk of an uncontrolled attack actually penetrating the mesh, thrusts can also damage the neck vertebrae by knocking the head back in a "whiplash" effect.

This helm is intended as a generic item of safety equipment and does not represent any particular historical period.

TOOLS and EQUIPMENT

1 modern fencing mask

1 welding mask

Shears

Sandpaper

1 sheet of tough, flexible plastic of similar color and texture to the outer surface of the welding mask

Epoxy resin

Hammer

1 nail

2 metal screws and 2 washers

OPTIONAL:

Closed-cell foam rubber padding

Suede or leather

WHAT TO DO WITH THE WELDING MASK

1 - Dissassemble the mask and remove the visor. Retain the screw-on plastic wingnuts for later use.

2 - Use shears and sandpaper to trim all protruding plastic flush to the surface, so you end up with a flat, curved screen with a slot where the visor used to be.

3 - Trim the two "ridges" on the inside surface of the slot by about 1mm each.

4 - Cut out a rectangle of plastic to cover the outside of the slot and fix it in place with epoxy.

5 - If desired as extra protection, you can glue a closed-cell foam rubber pad onto the inner surface of the mask.

FITTING THEM TOGETHER

1 - Measure the two masks so that the welding mask fits closely over the back of the fencing mask. When complete, the w.m.  should be able to "hinge" smoothly over the top of the f.m. Mark the "pivot points" on the f.m. through the wingnut holes in the w.m.

2 - Using the hammer and nail, gently tap and then widen the fencing mask mesh at the appropriate points.

3 - Use plastic wingnuts, metal screws and washers to attach the two masks together so that the welding mask can "hinge" up to open the helm. Adjust the wingnuts so that the w.m. is able to slide smoothly and still hold firmly in place.

4 - If desired, cover the f.m. bib and exposed surfaces with leather or suede.

EXTRA BONUS FEATURE!